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Pav Bhaji

Cook's Illustrated
6-8 servings

Thought to have originated as a quick, nutritious meal for Mumbai's textile workers, pav bhaji has since become an icon of the city on par with Bollywood and Juhu Beach. As good as the buttery, boldly spiced veggie mixture is, the garnishes are what make it excellent. A shower of sharp, juicy raw onions and fresh cilantro and a squeeze of lime are imperative, as are squishy butter-toasted buns served alongside for mopping.

Ingredients

  • 1 large russet potato (about 10 oz.), peeled, cut into 1" pieces
  • 1 small carrot, peeled, sliced crosswise ½" thick
  • 2 cups frozen cauliflower florets
  • ½ cup frozen green peas
  • 8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided, plus more
  • 2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 3½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more
  • 2 large red onions, finely chopped, divided
  • 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
  • 2 tsp. cumin seeds
  • 1 medium green bell pepper, ribs and seeds removed, finely chopped
  • 1 2" piece ginger, peeled,
  • 8 finely chopped garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 3 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste
  • 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. ground coriander
  • 1 Tbsp. ground cumin
  • 1 Tbsp. paprika
  • 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
  • ½ tsp. ground turmeric
  • 1 tsp. garam masala
  • 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
  • ½ cup finely chopped cilantro
  • 6-8 potato rolls, split
  • Lime wedges (for serving)

Directions

Bring potato, carrot, cauliflower, peas, 2 Tbsp. butter, 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 cup water to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until potato is falling apart and carrot and cauliflower are very tender, 12-18 minutes. Remove from heat and mash with a potato masher or fork until mixture is mostly smooth. Cover and keep warm.

Set aside ½ cup red onions for serving. Heat oil in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Cook cumin seeds until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 45 seconds. Add remaining red onions along with bell pepper, ginger, garlic, and 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent and golden brown in spots, 10-15 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium and add tomato paste, coriander, ground cumin, paprika, cayenne, turmeric, 2 Tbsp. butter, and ¼ cup water. Cook, stirring often so spices don't scorch, until mixture is slightly darkened, 6-8 minutes. Pour in another ¼ cup water and cook, stirring often, until oil beads on surface, about 5 minutes.

Scrape mashed vegetables into pot with aromatics. Add garam masala and 1 cup water; cook, stirring occasionally and adding a splash more water to loosen if needed, until mixture is risotto-like in consistency and mostly homogeneous, 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lime juice and 3 Tbsp. butter. Taste and add more salt if needed. Divide bhaji among bowls; top each with cilantro, a pat of butter, and reserved red onions.

Heat 1 Tsp. butter in a large skillet over medium. Working in batches and adding more butter between batches if pan looks dry, toast rolls, cut side down, until golden brown, about 2 minutes.

Serve bhaji with rolls and lime wedges.